A country not suited to the uninitiated traveller, Saudi Arabia can test the patience of a saint. Whilst it is not unusual for cultural and religious morals to dictate a country’s regime, Saudi Arabia takes this concept to the absolute max, applying boundaries so strict that it is easy to see why many foreigners quickly become disillusioned by Saudi custom and hurry their way across the border into one of the more open minded Middle Eastern countries. This is a shame, as those who scratch the surface have much to be rewarded by.
 
What makes matters worse is the country’s reluctance to admit foreign travellers. Foreigners have to jump through so many hoops even to be issued with a short term visa that it is hardly surprising that the majority give up and go elsewhere. In 1930, King Abdul Aziz bin Saud exclaimed “My Kingdom will survive only insofar as it remains a country difficult to access, where the foreigner will have no other aim, with his task fulfilled, but to get out.” This sentiment could be said to apply even today as, aside of work permits, Saudi Arabia only grants tourist visas to visitors who are part of a tour group, as opposed to travelling independently which in the main is still prohibited unless you are sponsored by a company or are in transit. In addition, as with most Middle Eastern countries, in light of current conflicts globally, it is always wise to check with the foreign office, regarding safety to travel. 

So congratulations, you made it into the country, but have you come prepared? Educating yourself on Saudi custom prior to crossing the border is not only recommended, it is nigh on essential to prevent you from treading on culturally sensitive toes! The cities of Saudi may look as though they’ve entered the twenty-first century, with gleaming sky scrapers housing office workers, fast food outlets vying for business and passersby with cell phones at their ear. Yet under the western makeover the Islamic roots remain the force majeure and life exists pretty much as it has done for centuries. In no time at all, you’ll be struck by a number of ‘oddities’. Firstly, you’re likely to become aware that there are few unaccompanied women in public places and that those women you do see are covered head to toe by dark robes (called the abaya), save for mystical eyes peeping out. Secondly, wherever you go, you’ll see notices proclaiming ‘no women’, ‘families only’ or ‘bachelor men only’. The fact of the matter is that segregation of sexes and of married and unmarried is still a way of life here. There are separate entrances for men and women, sometimes separate buildings altogether (such as men only banks and women only banks). Intermingling of sexes is forbidden under Islamic rule, save for family members. Even restaurants have separate areas for bachelor men and for families and many establishments forbid single women from entering the premises altogether. Obviously if you are a single female traveller this can severely hinder your travel plans! It is also wise for women travellers always to wear a head covering.

Another bizarre custom that will affect you soon after your arrival into the country is the prayer calls. Muslims are called to prayer 5 times daily and when prayer call comes (normally blaring out of a loudspeaker from mosques in the area), everyone stops what they are doing and goes to pray. Many a bewildered visitor has been half way through a supermarket shop, only to be ushered out of the store so that the owner and staff can attend prayers! 

Saudi Arabia is predominantly Muslim territory and adherence to religious and moral code of conduct is taken extremely seriously. This is a country where murderers are still beheaded, recurrent thieves can still have their hands chopped off and flogging may be given as a sentence for an offence that to a westerner would seem relatively minor. In addition, some religious sites are preserved solely for Muslim admittance, which precludes many foreign visitors from entering out of interest to learn about the site or religious domain. Notably this includes the 2 holy Muslim cities of Mecca and Medina, of which all Muslims should make a pilgrimage to at least once in their lifetime. Both cities have check points requiring visitors to prove their Muslim faith before entering and unless you can do so you will be turned away without exception. 

If you’ve read this far, you’re probably wondering why you should travel to a country that makes entry difficult and life and travel restrictive. Well, there is one good reason that outweighs all others, the inaccessibility of the place in many ways makes it a ‘forbidden pearl’ and this in itself appeals to the inquisitive nature of those who like to explore relative untouched territory. Go to Bangkok, Mumbai, the Costa Blanca, Macchu Picchu and scores of other interesting places and you can be certain that your travel tales will be met with nodding assent by the many others who have travelled these well trodden paths. But return from a trip in Saudi Arabia and watch as eager ears prick up to listen to tales of a place shrouded by mystery. It is a magnet for the small minority for whom a challenge is worth every ounce of energy expended in getting there. If you do go, take patience and tolerance with you by the kilo, together with an open mind and you will be well rewarded!

Things to do in Saudi Arabia

Riyadh

A thriving metropolis and the place you are most likely to relate to, which makes the transition much less daunting. Riyadh is a place for sitting in tea or coffee houses and cafes to watch the intriguing Saudi way of life. Sampling the tea is a must, it is an important Arabian custom and is served black with many different herbal flavours to choose from.
Take a stroll to the old Mismak Fort, which is now a ruin but gives a good insight into Saudi history. Contrast with the much more modern Water Tower, held in such high esteem by the locals that it has become a city logo.
You won’t discover nightlife in the form of bars and clubs in Saudi Arabia, they just don’t exist (on the ground that it encourages the intermingling of sexes), unless you have access to one of the ex pat compounds. Instead, shopping has been elevated to the number one form of entertainment and there is an amazing array of shops and malls to keep both locals and visitors amused. You will find great prices on gold, tailored clothing, watches and other jewellery, perfume and just about anything else you might have in mind. 

Desert

Who said you need bars and clubs for night time entertainment? The desert provides an amazing backdrop to a spectacular night of music, dancing or just crowding around the camp fire sharing stories with fellow travellers. In fact the desert is Saudi Arabia’s playground. During the day time, it is possible to hire a 4WD and traverse the steep sand dunes and have the ride of your life across sand and tussocky hills. Often during the evening, ex pats and travellers gather together en masse for a barbecue in the desert, bringing sound systems for music and sometimes even setting up in one of the rocky escarpments to provide a natural amphitheatre for a mini music festival! It is experiences like this that you will never forget and you are unlikely to experience elsewhere. 

For the more subdued traveller, the desert is still a hot spot, as it is possible to camp out quietly soaking up the peace, silence and magic of feeling at one with your natural surroundings under the vast star studded skies. 

Dammam's Corniche

The esplanade (or corniche as it is known locally) is a gathering place for friends and families. In light of the lack of other forms of entertainment, the corniche becomes of itself a place with a real vibe and buzz, where people hang out and enjoy chatting and walking. It is a great place to come to see how locals integrate. In the evenings the corniche is not only a hive of activity but there is a monument that changes colour frequently, throwing a vibrant mix of rainbow coloured hues across the night sky and people’s faces.

Madain Salah Tombs

If you’ve ever been enchanted by images of Jordan’s famous city made out rock in Petra, you will be just as enchanted by the Madain Salah tombs. Amazingly preserved in rock, these immense tombs have survived for centuries and present their stunning carved facades in the red rock in a way that will drop your jaw. The best way to visit the tombs and to travel between them is by tour. The tombs represent Saudi Arabia’s most important archaeological site, most of the tombs having been carved between 100 BC and 100 AD.

Abha

Located in the southern coastal region of Saudi Arabia, Abha is highly elevated and receives much fresher weather than most of Saudi’s counterparts, making it a popular region for locals to travel to in the summer to escape the intense temperatures inland. It is a great place to relax and ponder life whilst looking out at the stunning mountain vistas. Also interesting is the hand built homes made of stone and mud, undoubtedly adding to the appealing cooler environment for its residents. Part of the historic frankincense path, Abha has roots of old and makes an interesting excursion. Markets are held frequently and it is a great place to pick up hand crafted baskets and exquisite silver Bedouin jewellery. 

Another cool summer mountain getaway is Taif, where you will soon pick up on the chilled vibe that is missing from most of the large towns and cities.

 

Asir National Park

Not far from Abha is Asir National Park, a combination of several parks, with landscape of mountains and plains, great for walking. It is an easy place to spend a few days, especially with the versatility of free camping offered in the grounds of most parks.

Jeddah

In contrast to Riyadh with its modern glass towering offices and upmarket hotels, Jeddah has managed to maintain its identity of old and has been built around rather than over. Incredible traditional architecture is still in situ in the old part of the city and a feeling of the ancient Saudi Arabia makes Jeddah a charming place to visit. Coupled with the country’s best souks that will provide hours of entertainment in haggling and souvenir hunting, Jeddah is a definite ‘must-see’.

Al Habbalah

Never mind the hanging gardens of Babylon, how about the hanging village of Al Habbalah?! Generally accessed by cable car, the hanging village clings precariously to the side of a mountain. When it was first inhabited around 400 years ago, the only access was by rope, providing its resident Gahtani Tribe with a great means of protection from the invading Turks. You won’t have seen anywhere quite like this place.

Getting to and around Saudi Arabia

Flights into Saudi Arabia are generally expensive and it is often cheaper to fly to one of the bordering Middle Eastern countries and to enter over the border by bus. This is possible from most surrounding countries, although the distances are long and put off many travellers. 

It is possible to enter by passenger ferry between Jeddah and Port Sudan or by car ferry from Jeddah to Suez. 

Whichever way you enter the country, it is imperative that you have your visa approved already, otherwise you will be turning on your tail faster than you knew was possible! 

Once in Saudi, to get from one region to another the domestic air services are reasonably priced. Alternatively, hire car or bus are the other main ways of getting from place to place, although the Saudi Arabians are not known for their safety record and so you must either be a confident driver or be happy to put yourself in the hands of someone who may not have the same regard for road safety as you do! Also, it is important for women travellers to know that there is a separate women’s section, normally at the back of the buses.
There is a train system but it is very limited and really only of use if you are trying to get between Riyadh and Dammam. 

Fast Facts

• Full name: Kingdom of Saudi Arabia
• Population: Approximately 25 million
• Capital: Riyadh
• Major language: Arabic
• Major religion: Islam
• Monetary unit: 1 Riyal = 100 halalah
• Main exports: Oil, gas, cereals
• International dialling code: +966