The subject of numerous biblical references and epic backdrop to the much loved film ‘Lawrence of Arabia’, it is no wonder Jordan retains a shroud of mysticism and drama. Then there’s the huge natural flotation tank that is the Dead Sea. To add to this, Petra, Jordan’s captivating once forgotten city, was recently voted as being one of the new 7 wonders of the world. All this of a country the minimal size of Jordan, it’s like a low budget movie winning a handful of Oscars! 

So, you’ve been captured by the vision, your flight is booked, your bags packed, what are the sights and attractions that await you? 

Firstly, you’re not going to need those 3 fleeces you packed ‘just in case’ – did no-one tell you that Jordan is a desert land and the last thing you’ll need to worry about is keeping the chills at bay? (Unless of course you arrive in the bitter cold of winter in which case you’ll be wearing those 3 fleeces all at once!). In spring and summer, you may awaken early morning to temperatures akin to the midday sun, but once you’ve enjoyed a local breakfast out on the roof terrace you’ll soon be itching to explore. 

If you’re carrying a guide book with you, undoubtedly a large section of it will be devoted to Petra and there’s no denying that Petra is the jewel in Jordan’s crown. Petra is a jaw dropping sight to behold – a 2000 year old city carved out of red sandstone, in a remote valley hidden in the heart of the Shara Mountains. To come to Jordan and not visit Petra would be sacrilege! You may think you’re wearing rose tinted glasses when you first come face to face with this rock hewn wonderland, but no, Petra really does wear that rosy hue as the sun lights up her beauty, especially at sunset, when the effect is magical. And before you know it, you’ll be completely entranced by the romance of Petra and become yet another suitor mesmerized by her charms. 

The 2 biggest attractions of Petra are the Treasury and the Monastery, the latter of which can only be reached by a fairly steep climb of an hour or so. Both are mind blowing works of art, carved out of the ancient rock face and demonstrating supreme craftsmanship. 

Once you have seen the delights of Petra by day, you should unquestionably take a guided tour by night to experience the allure of the candlelit Treasury and surrounds where you will be treated to a sensory feast of music and stories of old, as you sip tea and soak it all up in wonderment. 

Petra may leave you a little disheartened as you ponder what, over the remaining duration of your trip, might possibly capture your imagination in this way. A good suggestion is that you ponder this question whilst floating in nature’s largest flotation aid – the Dead Sea, spanning the border between Israel and Jordan. Named so for its high salinity content that makes it impossible for sea dwelling creatures to survive in its watery depths, it happens to be the most fabulous place to lay back (or even sit up!) and rhythmically float in the warm waters whilst you ponder the meaning of life....or just what you’re going to have for dinner! You can even just sit back and read a paper as you float, the high salt and mineral content of the water will stop you from sinking! Whatever you decide, the Dead Sea is one of those natural wonders that will buoy your spirits (as well as your body) and have you ready for the next challenge! 

As well as the water itself, there are several interesting sites around the Dead Sea, including ‘Bethany’, believed to be the place of Jesus’ baptism. As you can imagine, the importance of this historical event and its local association is commemorated in just about every ancient church in the area. 

If you’ve flown into Jordan, you’ll have landed in the capital city of Amman. Amman captures the pulse of the more modern day Jordan, an inspiring mix of ancient architecture and new designs. Amman tends to be underrated by travellers, who either compare it to glitzier Middle Eastern rivals such as Dubai and Abu Dhabi, or to its neighbouring capital cities of Cairo, Damascus and Jerusalem, all of whom offer a grand history and a greater number of ancient monuments. However, understated would be a more accurate description of Amman. Yes, it may lack in the areas of those other cities described, but Amman’s location amidst precipitous hills, with a genteel pace of life and some fine dining restaurants you wouldn’t expect of a city off the beaten track, provide a sense of charm about the place. 

It is well worth spending a few days in Amman orientating yourself and becoming accustomed to the Jordanian way of life. You’ll find yourself enjoying the traditional souks and coffee houses and hunting out remains of ancient settlements. If the heat gets too much, you can always retreat to the air conditioned modern malls!

If you’ve ever watched ‘Lawrence of Arabia’, chances are you’ll have fantasies of spending a few days and nights in the romance of the desert. Filmed in the epic landscape of Wadi Rum, like the star of the film this is a ruggedly handsome area that will quickly have you under its spell. Nomadic Bedouins still roam freely here and the aura of the desert and these desert dwellers clad in swathes of cloth as protection from the heat and occasional sand storms will make you feel as though you have been transported to some enchanted faraway land. And to some degree you have – not quite the territory of Aladdin and his flying carpet, but the Jordanian desert and its Bedouin dwellers still live on as they always have done, unaffected by modern advancements of the city. When in their company, you couldn’t be further from the humdrum of life that exists elsewhere. The expanse of windswept sands coupled with the gracious Bedouin hospitality and a few nights sleeping out under starry skies will make for a truly unforgettable experience.

The desert conjures up images of an arid inland sea of sand, but in Jordan it has a much more complex make up than that. Yes there are sands and dunes for as far as the eye can see, but the Jordanian desert takes on many contrasting personas. The Northern desert hills that keep a watchful eye over the rift of Jordan Valley are rich with olive trees and flower-strewn meadows. South there are fields of waving wheat and to the East there are endless barren plains of volcanic basalt. Edged in some areas by rugged mountains, the diversity of landscape is a surprise to many and to take in the serenity of such contrasting panoramas can be breathtaking.

One of the most striking aspects of Jordan is the ingrained custom of hospitality. No matter where you are travelling in the country, be it big city or small village, you will be astounded at the number of invitations you receive to join locals for a welcoming cup of tea, or sometimes even a meal. There is an innate charm about the humility of these local people and whilst no-one is saying you should accept every invitation, to not graciously accept where time permits is to miss out on a genuine insight into the culture of the Jordanian people, who, you will find, often hold as articulate views on the world as any westerner. A simple invitation to tea often becomes the highlight of many traveller’s trips to Jordan. 

However, one word of caution: try not to demonstrate excessive admiration of any of your host’s household ornaments and objects – such is the overwhelming hospitality and generosity of the local people that they are likely to feel obliged to offer you the object of your admiration!! This, despite the basic existence in comparison to Western standards of living.

So, you’ve spent the first week lost in the depths of local hospitality, desert and lost cities, as well as pondering life as you know it (or thought you knew it) from the warm watery comfort of the Dead Sea. You probably think you’ve exhausted Jordan’s attractions. Think again, there is so much more to come! Indeed it is impossible to do the country justice in only 2 or 3 weeks - to get a real grasp of what Jordan is about and what it has to offer would take far longer than you probably have. 

A good way to get a feel for the geographical make up of Jordan, as well as some insight into its flora and fauna, is to go trekking. There are plenty of adventurous options for routes off the beaten track, as well as organised walking tours. There are great hiking trails in the Wadi Mujib Nature Reserve on the eastern shores. The reserve provides a natural habitat for nesting eagles, as well as the endangered species of mountain goat, called the Nubian Ibex. 

The above is merely a little taster of what Jordan has to offer. In addition you will find Byzantine churches by the dozen, crumbling desert castles, palaces, mosaics, natural hot springs, bath houses adorned with ancient frescoes, camel riding trips through the desert sands, donkey riding adventures up steep mountain passes, canyons and gorges, diving in the Red Sea, Roman theatres and archaeological ruins for numerous bygone eras, farming towns, oases and so much more!!

There is something so magical about Jordan and it is one of the friendliest and safest places to travel in the Middle East region and yet because of troubles associated with other areas of the Middle East, the tourist numbers have remained historically low. Still, for those in the know this means all the more freedom and solitude to explore and discover a country that will leave a permanent imprint on your heart and memory.

Getting there and around

You will either arrive by plane into Amman’s international airport, or you will arrive overland (usually by bus), across the border from one of the neighbouring countries. Buses travel between Amman and Damascus, Baghdad, Riyadh, Jeddah and Jerusalem. There is also a twice weekly train service between Amman and Damascus. 

Alternatively, it is possible to reach Jordan by sea, catching a ferry between Amman and Cairo. There is also the option of taking a fast boat between Aqaba and Sinai. 

Once in Jordan, buses and taxis will become your staple means of transport as there is a relatively good bus network in existence. If you’re short on time, it is possible to get a domestic flight between Amman and Aqaba.
 
Of course, one of the best ways to get around locally, is the humble donkey! 

Fast Facts

Population: 5,795,000 

Capital: Amman 

Area: 89,342 square kilometres (34,495 square miles) 

Language: Arabic, English 

Religion: Sunni Muslim, Christian 

Currency: Jordanian dinar