Israel is one of the most fascinating countries in the world. Consider this, a country known as ‘The Holy Land’, the world’s only Jewish State, of which the first five books of the Bible were written, a country both beguiling and in a state of conflict, both humble and yet bold, both proud of its origins and yet vulnerable in its current political situation.

Some say that religion is the creator of conflict. It could be said that this is borne out by Israel, the Holy Land with a long history of religious disputes. Originally, the Jews conquered and settled in Israel (then named Canaan) having fleed from slavery, only to be later defeated by the Romans who destroyed Jerusalem, expelled the Jews and renamed Israel ‘Palestine’. Since then, the country has been subject to many disputes and rulers, with Jerusalem finally coming under Jewish rule again in 1967 after the ‘Six Day War’. However, the West Bank was since occupied by Arab residents calling themselves Palestinians and forming the Palestinian Liberation Organisation. More conflict ensued, and attempts at peace were fruitless. Unfortunately, the militant Islamist organisation Hamas claimed responsibility for a number of suicide bombings in Israel in recent years, putting peace talks under strain. In addition, the Lebanese militant group Hezbollah launched a war on Israel in August 2006 and the country has maintained a state of unfortunate volatility ever since. 

Supposed peace talks make waves in the news but the sad fact remains that certain parts of Israel are still blatantly under attack and this has created a huge impact on the country’s tourism. The Israel/Gaza border is still under rocket fire and whilst there are still large areas of the country that remain relatively untouched by conflict, any travellers to Israel must make themselves fully informed of the current political and conflict situation, exercising extreme caution. The risks involved in travel across Israel currently include terrorist attacks aimed at busy social areas including buses, markets, bars and clubs. The Gaza Strip and West Bank are to be avoided altogether. 

Despite the tenuous political situation, Israelis maintain a deep sense of pride for their country and a positive attitude, which is reflected well in the hospitality offered by the majority of local citizens, towards travellers. And it cannot be denied that Israel has a kaleidoscope of sensational offerings to those who are brave and willing enough to visit the country despite its vulnerable state. There are some big rewards to be had.

What to do in Israel

To most, Israel immediately conjures up images of the biblical jewels of Bethlehem, Galilee, Nazareth and Jerusalem – all those places that hold a mystical aura and majesty about them through their deep religious associations. It is hardly surprising then that many visitors to Israel arrive hoping to experience a spiritual or religious connection, to come away somehow revived of the daily grind and possessed of a deeper understanding of their place in life. That is undoubtedly achieved by some. These places are of course absolutely enchanting and elevating of the soul. To come to Israel and not make a personal pilgrimage to some of the holy cities would be like going to Nepal and not catching a glimpse of Everest! They are not however the limit of Israel’s offerings.

One of the most unique places to visit is the Negev Desert. It is quite incredulous that the Negev falls under the radar of so many visitors to Israel, bearing in mind that it covers more than half of the country’s interior terrain! Besides, it offers up a multitude of bizarre and unique geological formations and despite the fact that it is a vast expanse of wilderness it is nevertheless home to over 1000 species of native plants as well as unusual animals such as the Ibex – there is much life in this desert!

Once part of the ancient Spice Route, the Negev desert was historically a busy trail of camel caravans and Bedouins. Nowadays the basic element of these intriguing journeys can be evoked by embarking upon a trip across the sculptured landscape on a grunting snorting ship of the desert! A several day trip will give you the most fodder for your imagination and in a relatively short space of time you’ll be dreaming that you are part of a camel train destined for some secret faraway nomadic land. Sleep out under the star studded skies or under the colourful wavering woven fabric of a Bedouin tent. Watch the sun paint its rich red and orange hues across the horizon.

Negev Desert is also home to two of the world’s most unique natural formations, the Dead Sea and Ramon Crater. Measuring 25 miles by 5 and a half miles, Ramon Crater is easily the world’s largest natural crater and is quite a spectacle. It is possible to trek by camel around the rim of the crater to get a sense of its sheer size. 

The other amazing natural phenomenon associated with Israel is the Dead Sea. At 1300 feet below sea level, the lowest point on earth, the Dead Sea is a place that is quite unique. Famed for its restorative values and more so for its salt content which makes it impossible for sea life to survive (hence the name) but which creates a natural floatation aid loved by all. There’s no trickery involved in those pictures of people sitting back in the water reading the newspaper – it really is possible. What a great way to pass a lazy afternoon! 

Another of the desert’s hidden secrets is the Nachal David Reserve. The reserve is a hiker’s paradise, rich in walking trails. Just when you thought desert meant miles and miles of dusty interior, you stumble upon this reserve that leads you gently to tumbling waterfalls nestled gloriously in tropical looking foliage. In fact you never quite know what jewels await at the end of the trails – some lead to long forgotten ruins, others to incredible mountain vistas hugging the salt rimmed Dead Sea. This is truly a place for exploration and discovery.

Israel is a heavenly place for water lovers. Not only does it have the Dead Sea but it also has the Red Sea! The Red Sea is a haven for divers, with crystal waters and pristine coral reef teeming with rainbow coloured sea life. If you don’t fancy getting wet, you can still view the amazing multicoloured fish by visiting Eilat’s famous Underwater Observatory, where you descend a spiral staircase that takes you under the water’s surface to get a bird’s eye view of Israel’s equivalent of the cast of ‘Finding Nemo’!! 

You don’t have to be a diver to love spending time at Eilat, it has something for everyone and a real holiday feel to the place with beaches and bars, shopping and great restaurants as well as lots going on for night owls and party goers. 

Then of course there’s the capital, Tel Aviv. Tel Aviv is perhaps the place that most captures modern day Israel. Here you will see a mix of modern and traditional dress, local and contemporary food, old embracing new. Take time to talk with Tel Aviv citizens and you will discover that times are changing, that young women have ambition and drive and are embracing independence. 

There is a vibrant pulse in Tel Aviv and a ‘can do’ attitude despite the current instability. Go down to the beaches and you will see they are thriving, you will see bronzed bodies just like beaches anywhere else in the world, you will hear world music blasting from beachside speakers, with lithe young bodies performing Capoeira to the admiration of onlookers on the beachside promenade only a short distance away from modern office complexes. Restaurants and nightclubs vie for the attention of tourists and locals alike. Yet, walk another 15 minutes or so and you’ll suddenly be embraced by the ancient walled city of Jaffa. Ancient custom meets gregarious confidence and modern ways in Tel Aviv, in a way that is exciting and infectious and makes you want to experience a taste of both intermingling ways of life.

Further up North the pace changes again. This is the beauty of Israel, you can journey by road for little more than a day and experience an ever changing backdrop as though it were a rolling scene of a play where the set changes dramatically between acts. Up to the northernmost region of the country you will find wine and olive growing regions, lush and colourful with a richness about it that demands you stop to take time to linger over the fine grape and indulge in hearty lunches of fresh bread and olives. Throw ancient temples into the mix and you’re sure to have a day to remember.

Having touched only briefly on the biblical attractions of Israel, it would seem churlish not to make a special mention of Jerusalem, which is after all the religious, political and geographical centre of Israel. Wake up early morning to the melody of church bells and slip down to see daily life beginning to stir before sunrise. Like Tel Aviv, here you will see that the crowds that mingle so effortlessly into one are actually an unlikely mix of Muslim in long traditional robes, young people in hip western attire, Orthodox Jews in head to toe black and women with beautiful eyes peering out from beneath brightly coloured headscarves covering their faces. The people alone are a fascinating sight - park yourself somewhere close to the throng and you can while away a couple of hours people watching whilst sipping mint tea and eating freshly baked sweet pastries to really get a sense of life in Israel. 

You will doubtless pay a visit to the Old City. On the way there you are bound to get lost amidst the maze of labyrinthine narrow streets, but that’s all part of the fun! The walled city is divided into Jewish, Christian, Muslim and Armenian quarters and can be entered by one of 7 entrances, the most popular being Damascus Gate, where crowds often gather. There are just so many religious and holy sites to visit in Jerusalem that it is recommended you buy a guide book or read up on the city before arriving! There are also some fantastic tours available.

When you take in the beauty of all that Israel has to offer, it does become hard to rationalise in your mind just how unstable the country has remained and raises questions as to why progress has not been made. The heady mix of different religions is superficially obvious but it does seem such a travesty that religion actually succeeds in widening the chasm rather than putting aside the differences. 

Getting to and around Israel

Most enter Israel via Ben Gurion International Airport. Due to the country’s current unstable situation there is tight airport security. Currently, entering Israel overland via one of the borders is not recommended although it is relatively safe to enter via the border with Egypt or Jordan and there are buses running across each of these borders. However, it is essential both to have visas in place prior to arrival and also to check the situation just prior to your trip as the position can change very quickly. 

Once in Israel, buses, trains, shared taxis or rental cars all provide reliable methods of transport from place to place.