“Everything, in this Algeria, had been a revelation for him, a source of distress even – of anguish. A sky too serene, a sun too dazzling, an atmosphere in which they languished, like a slow sigh that invited indolence and idle voluptuousness, the solemnity of a people draped in white, whose soul he could not penetrate, the deep green vegetation, contrasting with the rocky grey or red soil, parched and apparently desiccated, and then something indefinable, but bewildering and intoxicating, which emanated from an unknown source, all this had agitated him, had caused to burst forth in him wellsprings of emotion of which he had never suspected the existence.” Isabelle Eberhardt, Au Pays Des Sables

Algeria is a country bewitching to those who make the journey to visit and yet currently somewhat of a forbidden fruit due to civil unrest. Often, that which is forbidden only becomes more alluring - the curiosity abounds as to what lies beyond. In the case of Algeria, what lies beyond is a huge expanse of the Sahara desert, the rangy Atlas Mountains and jagged Hoggar Mountains, bustling desert oases, spellbinding stretches of rugged coastline and little towns that have defied the advancement of sprawling suburbia and remain much as they have for centuries.

Like many of the countries in the region, Algeria has a colourful history, with many settlers succumbing to the allure of its charms and location, including the Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, Ottomans and Turks. Each left their mark and contributed to the fascinating make-up of architecture and infrastructure. Part of the Maghreb region, known for the blend of tribal groups and caravanserai way of life, Algeria is a step back in time with an enormous amount of charm. Originally inhabited by the Berber tribe as far back as the seventh century, the Berbers managed to resist the Arab influence and still make up approximately twenty per cent of the population today, retaining their own language and culture. 

The Sahara covers four fifths of Algeria and remarkably over 90 per cent of the population inhabit only 12 per cent of the land, filling out pockets of the Mediterranean coast and maintaining simple ways of life. Not for Algeria is the concrete jungle that seems to have sprung up overnight across much of the Middle East and parts of Africa.

At one time, Algeria enjoyed the same popularity as its neighbour Morocco in terms of tourist activity. However, since the early 1990s, politically Algeria has endured heavy conflict between the military and Islamic militants, the result of which is the creation of a volatile environment and civil unrest. Coupled with recent deaths from continued terrorist activity, there are vast areas of the country that are unsafe to tourists and in fact require the accompaniment of an Algerian bodyguard and guide as a pre-requisite to entering the country! Tour groups do still operate, albeit within fairly well defined boundaries and always with up to date advice from the foreign office. These areas deemed safe have a lot on offer for visitors to the country and for the intrepid traveller this is a time to scratch the surface of a country unspoilt by the tourist trade. Algeria’s bad media rap at a time where terrorist activity is a global concern unfairly detracts from the famous warmth and hospitality of the majority of the nation. Nevertheless, a high level of caution and awareness for personal safety is necessary at this time and some of the areas and activities outlined below will currently be out of bounds. 

What to do in Algeria

Whether you’re a walker, a sun worshipper, a culture vulture, an adventurer or just keen to immerse yourself in local ways of life, Algeria won’t disappoint. It’s the kind of place where you can stay in rustic countryside accommodation, sharing a simple meat stew with a local family over dinner and awaken to the comical echoing bleats of hillside goats. Or the gentle hum of morning activity down by the ports as fishermen with sun wizened faces launch paint splintered boats in seek of the day’s catch. Or perhaps the melodic call to prayer from the town and city mosques as devotees offer morning worship. Simple daily life going on as it always has.

The following places are worth a particular mention: 

Tamanrasset

A picturesque town located at the heart of the Hoggar mountains, Tamanrasset is a draw card for visitors keen on hiking either the desert or mountain regions. Its close proximity to the desert also makes it a frequent meeting and trading point for the blue robed Touareg desert tribe who congregate with their camels before making their next journey across the timeless shifting sands of the Sahara. The mesmorising sight of this ancient nomadic tribe is evocative of bygone days and resonant of legendary African and Arabian desert story tales handed down from generation to generation. 

Algiers

From some view points Algiers looks like an old time photograph depicting a maze of narrow streets and zig-zagging alleyways, mules carrying packs up steep hills to drop off provisions at old stone houses, with street vendors and market sellers gathering livestock in the squares and purveying spices and craft work to visiting country folk or travellers. In reality, Algiers is now a more modern day version but not nearly to the degree of other capital cities and retains much of its vintage charm. The rat race hasn’t yet reached Algiers and although busy in comparison to other Algerian port side towns, to visitors there is a sense of unhurried ease about the place, making it a pleasant base for a few days acclimatization.

Exploring without a map is all part of the adventure as you stumble across Roman ruins, mosques, casbahs and alluring Turkish palaces, the architecture of which was much admired by the famous Le Corbusier. 

The Algerian Coast

There are many captivating places along the coast waiting to be discovered. Little gems that jut out over the rocky outcrops of the Mediterranean sea – sun drenched villages and tiny towns hiding ancient ruins and gorgeous coves and bays.

Well worth a visit is Pic des Singes (the ‘Peak of the Monkeys’) in Bejaia, for the striking vistas of the Turquoise Coast and the Cap Carbon Lighthouse, a previous place of exile for the well known author Cervantes.

There are also some resort towns with longer sandy beaches that rival beaches anywhere else along the Mediterranean and offer a more modern get up, with hotels and water sports outfits catering for tourists. Some offer marinas or an open air theatre. 

The Sahara

Covering such a large expanse of Algeria, no-one could ignore the Saharan desert and who would want to! A formidable but enchanting sight and one that will stay forever etched in your memory. Join a camel caravan with the knowledgeable Touareg tribe and enter the sea of sand via the spectacular El Kautara Gorges, known as ‘The Sahara’s Mouth’.

Surprisingly, the Sahara is dotted with oases that defy the conventional expectation of a spattering of palm trees. Here oases are lush and green, offering an abundance of trees and water and are more reminiscent of small town like settlements than a gathering of weary travellers. Again the blue robed tribes paint a pretty picture against the golden hues. 

Tassili N'Ajjer

Also known as the ‘Plateau of Chasms’, Tassil N’Ajjer is a vast volcanic plateau criss-crossed by massive gorges that contain rock paintings dating back to the Neolithic era. An awe inspiring sight and photographer’s dream.

Tlemcen

Situated in the wooded foothills of the Atlas mountains, Tlemcen is historically very significant and was an imperial city from the 12th to the 16th century. Travellers are nowadays drawn to the Tlemcen because of its cooler climate, but the draw ought to be the magnificent Grand Mosque and Mansourah Fortress. The area is rich with olive plantations.

Getting there and around

Getting to Algeria is no problem in terms of transport. Due to the large size of the country, flights from Europe and from other African countries, service a number of airports in different regions of the country, including Algiers, Oran and Anaba in the North, through to Tamanrasset and Djanet in the south.

It is also possible to enter the country by ferry from Marseilles in France and Alicante in Spain.

Given the current conflicts, entering by land border crossing is a much more risky option and in fact it is currently mandatory that you be met by an Algerian guide if this is your intended means of entry to the country. This requirement extends to self drive tourists, who must be accompanied by an Algerian guide throughout the duration of the trip, due to the abduction of some tourists a few years ago and to the presence of terrorist groups in some parts of the country. How long this requirement will remain in force is currently unknown.

Once in the country, there is a network of buses and trains, as well as shared taxi services. Bearing in mind the vast distances between towns, it is a good idea to book internal flights to free up your time to make the most of your trip. Vigilance using public transport is imperative until the political situation eases. 

Fast Facts

Full name: People's Democratic Republic of Algeria

Population: Approximately 33,000,000

Currency: Algerian Dinar

Official languages spoken: Arabic

Time Zone: GMT+1

Country Dialling Code: +213